Hello from Austria - A Country Drive and How Determination and Willpower Can Move Mountains

Finally, after the rather rainy day yesterday I openedentrance we saw a limestone stone column that
my curtains to an absolutely gorgeous day today.measured 22 meters in height with a circumference
The lush green Alpine foothills and mountainsof 46 meters. Fritz would lead the way and the
surrounding Weiz were competing with the brilliantcrowd would follow single file on the narrow
blue sky to catch my attention and naturally I had topathways and steep metal ladders that connect the
get out on the road and explore. I started with adifferent sections of the cave.
visit to the large pilgrimage church in my home townFritz explained that the former owners and explorers
of Weiz. It is assumed that a church, moreof the cave were a married couple by the name of
specifically a Roman basilica, was located on the hillHermann and Regine Hofer. The couple had arrived
above Weiz already around the middle of the 11thfrom out of town at the cave in 1951 after an
century. Due to poor lighting conditions inside theextended honeymoon and settled to modernize
church, this building was remodeled several times, untilanother limestone cave nearby - the
in the mid 1700s a decision was finally made to"Grasslhöhle". With admission revenues from the
replace the church with a new building. Constructionother cave, Hermann and Regine Hofer were able to
on the new baroque style church began in 1757 andpay for the exploration of their beloved Katerloch
was finally completed in 1776.which became their life-long project. Between the
The Weizbergkirche is a very imposing house ofyears 1952 and 1955 the couple discovered different
worship and was a well-known pilgrimage church, asportions of the cave, started to excavate tunnels
early as the 12th century. It became a very popularand connection points and initiated the electrification
pilgrimage destination in the 17th century, but sinceof the cave.
then the number of pilgrims has dropped substantially.Fritz told us about the tedious, backbreaking and
It is the largest church in the district capital of Weiz,cumbersome work that was involved in making this
and a landmark that can be seen on virtually everycave accessible to the public. Each of the 400
postcard of my home town. I was particularlyconcrete steps leading 135 metres down into the
amazed when I walked inside the church and sawmountain had to be hand-built and the cement had to
the renovated 18th century frescoes that are oncebe carried in by the bucket through narrow
again impressing visitors with their astounding colourspassageways. New openings into other caverns were
and details since their recent renovation.detected by means of candlelight whose flickering
Directly in front of the church is an elevated plateauindicated that there was air movement and a
from where there is a great view over the town andpotential connection into another, as yet
the surrounding area. A sculpture called the "Balanceundiscovered part of the cave.
Beam" reminds people of the transience of life. OnThe cave consists of several portions: right beside
the southern slopes of this hill is the cemetery ofthe entrance is the so-called "Marteldome", a 45 m
Weiz which features many graves going back severaldeep vertical shaft that the couple initially used to
hundred years. One of the most famous graves inaccess the cave. Another large cavernous space is
this cemetery belongs to Aurelia Schwarzenegger,the "Fantasiehalle" (Hall of Phantasy), a space with a
mother of that most famous Austrian export: Arnoldlength of 120 metes, a width of 85 metres and a
Schwarzenegger.height of 15 metres, which features a great variety
I then hopped into my car and drove up to the nextof interestingly shaped dripstones. Fritz Geissler
higher hill, the so-called "Landscha", which alsopointed out limestone corals; delicate white and
overlooks the town and has been a very popularcoloured limestone curtains, and stalagmites and
residential area for decades due to its great views.stalactites that were in various stages of growing
The top of the plateau features a forest andtogether until they form fully connected columns.
agricultural fields and is a popular destination forHe explained that the age of the stones varies
joggers and bicyclists. From here I drove into thewidely, some of the younger ones could be tens of
forest and turned eastwards into a mountain valleythousands of years old, while the older massive
called Ponigl.columns would date back many millions of years. Fritz
Just a few minutes outside of town, this area isGeissler mentioned that Hermann Hofer often said
nevertheless very rural, remote and agricultural.that "1000 human years are but a single second in
Various farms, some centuries old, are dottedthe life of this cave", a comment that will certainly
throughout the countryside and still actively involvedput our daily human concerns and worries into a
in agriculture, be it growing corn or raising cattle. Thebroader perspective. Our guide also pointed out
valley ends in a dead end and only forest roads andbones of a cave bear, an extinct mammal species
hiking trails will take you up into the surroundingabout 30% bigger than the Brown Bear which
mountains. One area close by is known as thebecame extinct after the last ice age about 20,000
"Galgenwald" (Gallow's Forest), an area where localyears ago. Large colonies of bats still inhabit this cave.
criminals were hanged until a couple of centuries ago.In 1955 Hermann and Regine Hofer finally discovered
Many legends surround this area and to this daythe "Zauberreich" (Enchanted Kingdom), a cavern that
there is an area that features three stone columnsfeatures an entire selection of magical royalty-inspired
that were used a long time ago for executions bylimestone structures, including a king, a queen, some
the regional court.knights and even a royal lapdog. Not far away is a
Past the quaint village of Oberdorf I continued to myhuge ice-cream shaped limestone cone whose story
next destination: Schloss Thannhausen (the Castle ofis also fascinating: Fritz Geissler elaborated that a
Thannhausen), an extensive country estate that waswealthy American man once wanted to buy the
originally mentioned as early as 1177. The currentmighty dripstone, proposed to pay a huge sum of
version of the castle was constructed in Renaissancemoney for it and to drill a vertical tunnel straight
style in the 1500s and features a stunning innerthrough the mountain to extricate the dripstone. But
courtyard with rounded-arch arcades. On a regularthe cave's owners, Hermann and Regine Hofer, both
basis this courtyard is used for concerts and providesdeeply religious and modest people, not surprisingly
a perfect backdrop for musical enjoyment.rejected the generous offer out of hand. The
After a quick drive back and through the town Iintegrity of the cave was more important to them
headed into the "Weizklamm" (the Weiz Riverthan material gain.
Gorge), a steep incision into the surrounding limestoneWe still continued our walk downwards and finally
rocks that drop vertically down to the Weizbach.reached the deepest part of the publicly accessible
Interestingly, a main regional road has been built intoportion of the cave: the "Seenparadies" (Lake
the rocks and is so narrow in some parts that isParadise), an underground lake and a truly magical
impossible for two vehicles to pass each other.sight. A turquoise-green iridescent water surface is
I filmed the entire 2.5 km drive through thepunctuated by alabaster-white stalagmites and
Weizklamm and quite often I had to stop and let onestalactites, surrounded by stunning vertical walls. Our
of the many transport trucks that frequent this roadentire group stopped to take in this breathtaking
pass. Mirrors in the corners help drivers see whethersubterranean lake paradise. We had reached the
there is traffic approaching, and the locals are verydeepest part of the tour, 135 m below the cave's
used to driving on this narrow road in between theentrance and after absorbing this enchanted
rocks. On top of the rock cliffs there is a hiking trailenvironment we made our way back up to the
called the "Jägersteig" (Hunter's Trail) whichsurface the same way we came in.
provides great views over the surrounding mountainsOur underground adventure had taken about two
and the gorge.hours, and on the way up Fritz Geissler told us more
Past the gorge there is a fork in the road: on the leftabout the eccentric yet determined couple that
side you will reach the country village of Passail, andexplored this cave and made it accessible to the
on the right side you continue beside the river to apublic. The key phrase he used was that
small hamlet called Schmied in der Weiz. I turned right"determination and willpower can literally move
and decided to take a steep country road up to themountains", and Hermann and Regine Hofer's tenacity
mountain village of St. Kathrein am Offenegg, aled to the discovery of new sections of the cave
popular tourist destination with several hotels,and it was only their backbreaking excavation work
restaurants and bed and breakfasts.and their construction of the ladders and pathways
St. Kathrein offers many hiking trails, an educationalthat made it possible for regular people to visit and
forest trail, a publicly accessible herb garden as wellenjoy the cave.
as skiing in the winter. Settled already in Celtic-NordicThe Hofers provided public tours of the cave from
times, German settlers moved into the area in thethe 1960s to the 1980s but then closed the cave
11th century. A church was mentioned as early assince visitors were causing so much damage. Fritz
1295 and the current church was modified andGeissler had been one of the visitors of the cave and
enlarged several times over the centuries. I walkedoffered his help to Hermann Hofer in maintaining the
around and into this small country church which iscave. His mentor accepted his help and from this
surrounded by a cemetery and offers a beautifulpoint forward Fritz Geissler became Hermann Hofer's
view westwards towards the Passail Basin.apprentice. In his later years (Hermann Hofer passed
After a lovely lunch at my friend Andrea's place, heraway in 2003 at the age of 95), he was looked after
whole family and I embarked on another adventure: aby our guide Fritz Geissler and decided to pass his
guided tour of the "Katerloch", a limestone cave thatlife's passion, the Katerloch, on to the much younger
features the largest number of dripstones in all ofman who was honoured to continue the legacy.
Austria. Following a beautiful 15 minute drive throughAfter extensive renovations in 2004 the Katerloch
serene rolling hills surrounding the hamlet ofwas finally opened to the public again, and Fritz
Dürntal we arrived at the entrance of theGeissler's indepth knowledge and highly developed
cave.speaking skills have been making his cave tours a
A group of about 20 or 25 people was alreadyspecial attraction in the whole region. I had a chance
waiting, and the owner of the cave, a young man byto interview this remarkable young man afterwards
the name of Fritz Geissler, was ready to take us onand he also mentioned that he is now offering a
our guided tour. At 30 Euros, the guided tour is notmental strength training program that integrates the
exactly an inexpensive venture, but Fritz explained tocave experience into the training sessions. Our entire
us that the upkeep of the cave is costly and thegroup was quite taken with our cave adventure and
price acts as an important filter that keeps outthe enthusiastic and informative presentation of our
undesirable visitors who might not have a realguide, and many people lingered for a while to chat
interest in this natural wonder. His concerns areand connect.
justified since over the last decades visitors haveThe visit to the Katerloch was the perfect
done considerable damage to the cave and brokenintroduction to my planned hike tomorrow: a hike
off dripstones to take home as a souvenir.though the adjoining Raabklamm, a deep river gorge
We started to congregate at the entrance of thewhich is framed by the very mountains that hold
cave and Fritz explained that the name of the cavethese caves. So after a tasty barbecue at my
"Katerloch" is composed of the term "Eulenkater" (afriends Andrea and Herbert's place that featured
male owl) and "Loch" (hole), indicating that owlsdelicious pork chops and a young kitten chasing a pet
inhabit this cavern and regularly fly in and out of therabbit, I rested up for a big hiking tour tomorrow.
cave, particularly from fall to spring. Right at the